To the millions of Chinese ushering in a new decade on January 25th 2020, eating the auspicious Nin Koe to welcome the Year of the Metal Rat will surely take on a “higher” meaning this year.
Nin Koe, (or Nian Gao in Mandarin) is the Cantonese word for the steamed glutinous rice flour cake that is eaten every Chinese New Year to herald better fortunes for the coming year. Because “Nin” means “Year” and “Koe” means “cake” or “high” in Cantonese, Nin Koe literally means Year High or a loftier year ahead in terms of wealth, health, career, luck, success and everything else that matters in one’s life.
As mentioned in the last article on steamed Chinese cakes and the Chinese predilection for wordplay and symbolism, Nin Koe, by its very meaning, symbolizes a “higher year” for everybody. And for welcoming the turn of a new decade, this Chinese New Year should be doubly special. Enjoying the cake or giving it away as a gift is a great way to wish everyone soaring success for the year ahead.
The lovely thing about Nin Koe is that it can be enjoyed all year round and not just during the lunar new year. Nor does it confine itself as a cake for only one community.
Being a multiracial country that shares each other’s traditions, the Malays in Malaysia eat Nin Koe too! The cake is simply called Kueh Bakul Melayu and in fact, here is a Bernama story last year of a Muslim woman entrepreneur who made it her business to sell Nin Koe to the masses. She has seen great success as have others such as Kak Nani from Perlis who makes and sells the cake by the truckloads to both the Malay and Chinese community as a family business. In fact, quite an industry has risen around the Nin Koe. Every year, its business ventures never tire of making headlines and enjoy media coverage across many TV, video, publishing and social media channels. Talk about the success the cake bestows!
The Legend of the ‘Higher Year’ Cake Nin Koe
The other lovely thing about Nin Koe is that it has an entertaining tale behind it as well! Actually, there are two tales behind the legend of the Higher Year Cake. Take whichever you fancy according to your appetite as both will make delicious food for thought!
1. Funny Story
The humorous legend goes like this. Many Buddhists believe there is a “Kitchen God” that resides in the kitchen of every home. His job is to do a “yearly report” on how the family has behaved in the past year. So by offering Nin Koe, which is sticky because it is made of glutinous rice, the Kitchen God’s mouth will be gummed together, making him go “Mmfffmmfffmmmff” when he tries to carry tales to the Jade Emperor. In short, Nin Koe is made to silence the Kitchen God. This way, the “higher ups” won’t hear of the bad things we’ve done and we get to earn good marks and the blessings of the Jade Emperor who will bestow us with luck and prosperity in the coming year.
2. Serious Story
As opposed to the tall tale above, this one is perhaps a truer story, according to information in China Highlights.com. Nin Koe has been around since the days of warring Feudal China. Legend has it that Nin Koe has its origins in Suzhou, around 2,500 years ago.
In 722–481BC, Suzhou was the capital of the small kingdom of Wu. Strong walls were built to protect Wu from attack and when they were completed, the king of Wu celebrated happily and everyone forgot about the war. Everyone, except for the Prime Minister Wu Zixu, that is. In his wisdom, he told his entourage: “War should not be viewed lightly. The strong wall is a good protection indeed, but if the enemy besieges our kingdom, the wall will also be a hard barrier to ourselves. In case of emergency, remember to dig a hole under the wall.”
Years later, after Wu Zixu died, his ominous words came true. The enemy attacked and many people starved to death being encased within these walls. The soldiers then remembered the words of Wu Zixu and dug a hole under the wall. Lo and behold, they found that the wall under the earth was built with bricks made from glutinous rice flour! It was this food that saved the people from further starvation and it is these special bricks that are said to be the original Nin Koe. After that, people ate Nin Koe to commemorate Wu Zixu and in time, ate it as a Chinese New Year cake to symbolize salvation from hardship…kind of like the hope we have for the new year.
Lisa Ng, the contributor of this recipe and the recipe for the Chinese Walnut Biscuits Hup Toh Soh below, says apart from the legend of the Nin Koe, there are also a lot of pantang larang associated with its making as well.
“The old folks would say that to make successful Nin Koe, the atmosphere in the home must be peaceful and harmonious. No fighting, gossiping and badmouthing would be allowed while making Nin Koe in the kitchen, or it would not turn out smooth no matter how long you steam it. That is why, the traditional way of making Nin Koe is to steam it at night when everyone has gone to sleep.”
Here is Lisa’s recipe for Nin Koe. She has also kindly contributed all the pictures.
Nin Koe (Nian Gao)
There are really only very few ingredients needed for this recipe. Originally a three ingredient cake, Lisa has added one more secret ingredient and that is the cooking oil to produce a smooth, dark surface to the cake. The result: a perfect turn out each time.
Ingredients
- Sugar: 275gm
- Water: 375gm
- Glutinous Rice Flour: 300gm
- Cooking oil: 1tbsp
- Condensed milk tins (4) and banana leaves
Method
- Wash and soak the banana leaves to soften them. You may cut into strips to suit the size of your containers.
- Line the banana leaves in several layers inside the tins to ensure that the cake batter does not leak out. Secure with a string. Set aside.
- Put sugar in a pot and stir fry it over low fire until the sugar turns brown.
- Then slowly stir in water until it is well mixed.
- Let it boil until it thickens into a syrup.
- Cool the syrup into the flour then add in oil.
- Stir the mixture.
- Pour into the already lined tin containers.
- Fill ¾ of the way to the top as the glutinous rice flour and caramalised sugar will bubble and rise during steaming.
- Cover the tops of the tins with a muslin cloth to prevent condensed water vapour from dripping into the batter.
- Steam in rolling hot water for 4hrs.
Hup Toh Soh
Hup Toh Soh or Chinese Walnut Biscuit is another Chinese “must eat” cookie for the Chinese New Year. Another traditional delicacy that goes back through the ages, Lisa says it is very easy to make. “Only takes 20 minutes,” she quips. Here is how you make them.
Ingredients
- Plain Flour: 225gm
- Icing Sugar: 60gm
- Sugar: 60gm
- Chopped Walnuts: 75gm
- Peanut Oil: 169gm
- Egg: 1 (beaten)
- Baking Soda: 4gm
- A pinch of salt
Method
- Preheat oven to 180°C .
- In a large mixing bowl, mix all ingredients well.
- Lastly, add in chopped walnuts.
- Roll into a ball of 25gm, then flatten with finger or the back of a spoon.
- Brush top of biscuits with egg wash.
- Put in oven.
- Bake for 20mins.
[dropcap letter=”A”]nd there you have it ─ another two traditional recipes to put out for your guests this Chinese New Year. Happy baking everyone, happy reaping back all the good luck they give out and Gong Hei Fatt Choy!
For more exciting recipes, always remember to visit Motherhood.com.my.